Jun 17, 2016

Bygone Beehive

My husband says everything great and wonderful comes out of Chicago. Hometown pride, of course. So it wouldn't surprise him at all to learn that the beehive was the creation of a Chicagoan, Margaret Vinci Heldt, who passed away Friday, June 10 at the age of 98.

 dotpolka - beehive - 2005 -Flickr / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 unmodified

 Caryn Rousseau/Associated Press

Margaret invented the beehive in 1960, when she was asked by Modern Beauty Shop magazine to create a look to mark the new decade. The bouffant was already a popular style for women, but Heldt's beehive took the bouffant to new heights.

'They told me: "We want you to come up with something really different."' Her invention was published in the February, 1960 issue.

The beehive, nor the bouffant, could have been possible without the postwar invention of aerosol hair spray. The hairstyle requires backcombing the hair and setting it. According to Heldt, it was a salon favorite because "it would hold its shape for a week between appointments."
“I started building up height from a basic updo by winding hair over Pepsi cans, back-combing at first and then – inspiration, I spiraled a layer of hair smoothly around the form. This was then followed by a major session of hair spraying to hold it all in place.” Glamourdaze.com



What's so interesting is that the hair-do was not inspired by the honeycomb house for bees, but rather by a hat – a black, velvet fez-style cap.
“I always would look at that little hat and say ‘Someday, I’m going to create a hairstyle that would fit under the hat, and when you take the hat off, the hairstyle would be there.’” New York Times
The cap was decorated with two beads resembling bees, and the hairstyle was ultimately named by the magazine's editor who felt the bee beads fit the 'do. While that hat has yet to make its way to a museum, Heldt's “Lady Bee” hair mannequin is in the collection of the Chicago History Museum.

The hairstyle might have germinated in Chicago, but it certainly became an international sensation.

 L: Dusty Springfield, 1966 NME Pollwinners Concert / R: Ronettes, 1963

 Audrey Hepburn, Breakfast at Tiffany's, 1961

Mar 8, 2016

Hair Extensions ~ '50s Style

The 1950s did colored hair extensions too, you know.....What fun!
"It all goes to show, a woman's hair is her crowning glory"

Hair Extensions Back On 50s
Posted by Fashion World Magazine on Tuesday, October 6, 2015

Jan 10, 2016

Pétrole Hahn Hair Tonic

Pétrole Hahn hair tonic was sold beginning in 1885.
Here are some of their art deco and other vintage print ads.

Pétrole Hahn advertisement, L’Illustration, February 9, 1918, page 2. Public domain image.

Pétrole Hahn advertisement, from Les Feuillets d'Art, 1920.

Pétrole Hahn advertisement, pochoir from Les Feuillets d'Art, 1920.

Pétrole Hahn advertisement, “arrête la chute des cheveux,” illustration by Charles Martin, unknown date.
Pétrole Hahn advertisement, L’Illustration, December 6, 1930.

Pétrole Hahn advertisement, designed by Andre Wilquin, circa 1930.

Ellen Auerbach, Grete Stern, Studio Ringl & Pit, Pétrole Hahn, 1931.
Collection SFMOMA. © Ringl & Pit, courtesy Robert Mann Gallery. (1)

 Dora Maar and Pierre Kefer, "Étude publicitaire pour Pétrole Hahn." Original silver gelatin glass negative plate.
Centre Pompidou, Musée National d’Art Moderne, 1934. (2)

 Dora Maar, ferrotyped, 1935. (3)

1. The Jewish Women's Archive interviewed the photographers Ellen Auerbach and Grete Stern about their image which was used as an ad for Pétrole Hahn hair lotion. It combined a nightgown, mannequin head, and a real hand, but the photographers later forgot whose hand was in the photo and which one took the photograph.
2. Dora Maar's surrealist advertising work in the early 1930s, included this image of a boat sailing through an ocean of hair.
3. www.mutualart.com

Marks of the Genuine Man

Boru O'Brien O'Connell - Marks of the Genuine Man (Emerson) - c-print - 2008

Dec 27, 2015

A Striking Beard: circa 1540-46

"This plaque of Limoges painted enamel on copper bears a portrait of Jacques de Genouillac, known as Galiot, Seigneur d'Assier (1465-1546) as an old man. The plaque was painted by Leonard Limosin (ca.1505-1575/7) whose work was, and still is highly valued for its originality, diverse subject matter, artistic merit and technical skill." ~ Via the Victoria & Albert Museum