Showing posts with label long hair. Show all posts
Showing posts with label long hair. Show all posts

Mar 4, 2019

Laura Laine

Laura Laine is a Finnish fashion illustrator who has worked with ShowStudio, Vogue Japan, Vogue Germany, Pantene, Zara, and H&M.

She frequently illustrates women with prominent strands of long hair. Her interest in hair, however, derives little from realistic hairstyles. As Laine explains in a recent interview with Buro247, her intention is to use hair “as this voluminous element in the composition." It weaves into the clothing, billows around the head, and moves in engaging ways around the body. See for yourself.


This Rodarte SS16 illustration was part of ShowStudio’s 2015 A Beautiful Darkness exhibition.


This specially commissioned illustration, called It's Only a Game, was created for ShowStudio’s 2011 Illustrating McQueen project. 
It paid homage to a selection of fashion designer Alexander McQueen's most pivotal designs.

The sinuous and effusive strands lead one to associate Laine’s work with whimsy and delight. But the distorted and twisted lines also have a darkness that are reminiscent of Aubrey Beardsley and Harry Clarke. The long hair donning the women in Laine's illustrations is not just a compositional and stylistic device; it is a signature element of her work.


Left: Fall 2014 - Marni for ShowStudio | Right: Illustration from in Espoo Museum of Modern Art’s For Fashion’s Sake May 3 – September 3, 2017


Both illustrations are from an editorial for Muse Mag circa 2011.


Apr 29, 2015

Hair: This Day in History

hair still

Today in 1968, the musical Hair premiered on Broadway and
came to symbolize the counter cultural movement.

She asks me why
I'm just a hairy guy
I'm hairy noon and night
Hair that's a fright
I'm hairy high and low
Don't ask me why
Don't know

But the hippies knew why they grew their hair. It was not only a symbol of rebellion, but a marker of political and cultural allegiance as well as a rejection of restrictive gender norms.

Give me down to there hair
Shoulder length or longer
Here baby, there mama
Everywhere daddy daddy

Hair, hair, hair, hair, hair, hair, hair
Flow it, show it
Long as God can grow it
My hair

Let it fly in the breeze
And get caught in the trees
Give a home to the fleas in my hair
A home for fleas
A hive for bees
A nest for birds
There ain't no words
For the beauty, the splendor, the wonder
Of my...

Hair, hair, hair, hair, hair, hair, hair
Flow it, show it
Long as God can grow it
My hair

I want it long, straight, curly, fuzzy
Snaggy, shaggy, ratty, matty
Oily, greasy, fleecy
Shining, gleaming, streaming
Flaxen, waxen
Knotted, polka-dotted
Twisted, beaded, braided
Powdered, flowered, and confettied
Bangled, tangled, spangled, and spaghettied!

Oh say can you see
My eyes if you can
Then my hair's too short

Down to here
Down to there
Down to where
It stops by itself

They'll be ga ga at the go go
When they see me in my toga
My toga made of blond
Brilliantined
Biblical hair
 
But let us now enjoy the abundance of wonderful poster illustrations of H-A-I-R!

hair poster 1hair poster 2

hair poster 3 hair poster 4

hair poster 5


Mar 29, 2014

Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow: The North Korean Hair Rumor

Hair styles are such a symbol of cultural conformity and nonconformity. Just like fashion, we use hair-dos to fit it or stand out. We Americans relish the freedoms we enjoy to do whatever we like with our looks, even when its tasteless to the point of offensive. So the internet rumor that North Korean leader Kim Jong-Un was forcing male university students in the capital to sport the same 1/2 shaved style as Dear Leader Jr. understandably went viral. It speaks to our supreme distaste for the idea of communism's cultural control.


While the mass buzz cuts may be a rumor, according to the New York Times North Korea did wage war against long hair in 2005.
"... the government waged war against men with long hair, calling them unhygienic anti-socialist fools and directing them to wear their hair "socialist style." It derided shabbily coifed men as "blind followers of bourgeois lifestyle." The country's state-run Central TV even identified violators by name and address, exposing them to jeers from other citizens.

The hair campaign, dubbed "Let's trim our hair according to socialist lifestyle," required that hair be kept no longer than 5 centimeters (2 inches). Older men received a small exemption to allow comb-overs.

The campaign claimed long hair hampers brain activity by taking oxygen away from nerves in the head. It didn't explain why women were allowed to grow long hair."
Sheesh, who knew? Glad I cut my hair off, hopefully I'll get smarter now!

Jun 21, 2012

A Fetish Cut

The online fashion website ShowStudio is running an online series called Fashion Fetish as a component to their exhibition Selling Sex. Fashion Fetish includes performances, fashion films, and essays made solely by women working in fashion.  The video "Is My Mind For Me" by Sarah Piantadosi and Ellie Grace Cumming (assistant stylist to Katy England) depicts Sardé Hardie using large shears, to slowly cut off her long black hair.


The film is described as addressing trichophilia, being sexually aroused by hair (or specifically its subset of being aroused by hair cutting). It depicts a girl taking scissors to her long hair in a Junya Watanabe sweater with "Hymn Eola" by Tonstartssbandht providing the soundtrack. The sexual significance of hair as fetish is obvious, but somehow I just don't think there is much eroticism in the 2 1/2 minute video, unless you happen to be a trichophiliac.

There is a strong relationship between women and their hair. Hair is often a symbol and tool of feminine sexuality and power. Cutting off one's long locks has paradoxical meanings: it is an act of renunciation of power, submission almost, as well as an act of fearlessness. And hair cutting is an apt action since fetish is about power/powerlessness and presence/absence.

But fetish is also about arousal, that of either the subject or audience. While the camera's eye is operating voyeuristically, it doesn't seduce the viewer. There is no scopic pleasure. And the actress (who evokes a bit of Kate Moss) shows little emotion. Not fear, joy, or ecstasy. Things improve a bit when, as she takes the shaver to her head, her fingers gently touch the crewed cut, and she caresses her scalp. But when the camera shifts to her toes and the hair gathering on the floor, I think the filmmakers missed the opportunity to have her curl her toes. This one small gesture would have said it all.

____________

The ShowStudio website provides this essay to contextual the works:
If, historically speaking, a fetish is a manufactured object which has magical powers, or one that people are irrationally devoted to, fashion is a veritable fetish-factory of 'It' shoes, 'Now' bags, and garments that magically propose to make your life indefinably better. On a less abstract level, fashion has been obsessed with sexual fetishism for centuries. The subtle constraint of the corset, the snugly-gloved hand, a shiny boot of leather - all staples of the well-dressed man or woman, and equally the well-equipped Sado-Masochist. At the turn of the twentieth century, the Pandora's Box of fashion fetish was blown apart - from Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren's proposal of 'rubberwear for the office' in their seminal London boutique SEX, to Gianni Versace's sanitised 'Bondage Chic' of 1992, to the power of John Galliano's 'Sado-Maso' haute couture collection for Christian Dior in 2000, designers articulated the sexual peccadilloes of a select few across the international catwalks. It's fetish as fashion.

Fashion Fetish hands the power entirely to female fashion professionals, asking them to address the notion of Fashion Fetish and examining their individual visions of women. In contrast with Selling Sex, which reimagines the female relationship with sex, Fashion Fetish focuses on a woman's relationship with clothing. Although as fashion historian Anne Hollander has asserted, the nude in art always wears 'The fashion of her time' - fashion's influence can be felt across the naked flesh, her body as 'fashioned' as a corseted ball-gown. Dressed or undressed, this project offers a clear field, a blank canvas and an open mind to a selection of some of the most important women working in fashion today - designers, stylists, models and image-makers - inviting them to present their own interpretation of Fashion Fetish. Their visual interpretations of the Fashion Fetish theme are then used as the inspiration for a host of female authors, journalists and cultural commentators to 'unpick' fetish in a series of accompanying essays, each written to correspond with a particular piece.

Sep 21, 2011

A Tale of Long, Long Hair

Miss Grace Sutherland, ca. 1890, albumen print, George Eastman House Collection

It is generally agreed that women’s hair is a symbol of sexual power, seduction, and eroticism. Was it not the luxuriant long hair of Medusa that threatened the goddess Minerva’s own claim to be most beautiful? When contrasted to being tied-up atop the head, long hair signifies being sexually ready, as the time to go to bed.
The more abundant the hair, the more potent the sexual invitation implied by its display, for folk, literary, and psychoanalytic traditions agree that the luxuriance of the hair is an index of vigorous sexuality, even of wantonness. ~ Elisabeth G. Gitter, The Power of Women's Hair in the Victorian Imagination. 
The spectacle of hair that is the Sutherland Sisters' was, and continues to be, hard to ignore.
I first learned about the Seven Sutherland Sisters at the 2008 Whitney Biennial where the video installation piece Cheese by Argentinean artist Mika Rottenberg was on view. Ms. Rottenberg alludes to the Sutherland Sisters in her work which consists of a dilapidated, wooden barn-like structure with video monitors visible amidst its architecture. The monitors display longhaired “maidens” in white nightgowns “working” on a farm. Their seductive hair is a natural gift yet also the cause of their labor. The women are objects of desire and exploitation, their hair a product to be consumed both visually and materially.



This wonderful artwork simultaneously suggests grooming, farming, production, fairy tales, and carnival sideshows. The women’s toil is an amusing and sinister mixture of an elaborate hygiene ritual, magic ritual and seduction ritual as they “milk” their locks and the goats they live with to generate cheese.


In one sense, this piece refers to Marxist ideas. Rottenberg has said she was thinking about “this creepy idea of the body as this land, or this territory, and growing stuff of the body and extracting value from nature and this idea of labor as a process between a person and nature, making this kind of product.”


In another sense, however, this piece is more magical. One thinks of the fairy tale Rapunzel, of a woman whose freedom is gained through her hair, by her body. Rottenberg investigates feminine magic as related to Mother Nature, “the ability to ‘grow things out of the body’ as she says, as the ultimate, wondrous physical mystery.” 1.


The women represented in Ms. Rothenburg’s video were based on the Seven Sutherland Sisters of Cambria, New York (Niagara County). During the late 1800's and early 20th century the sisters were an illustrious singing act with the Barnum & Bailey Circus (c. 1892-1907).  However, the Sutherland Sisters were likely known more for their exceptionally long hair than for their musical talents. They would notoriously end their performance by letting down their hair to thunderous applause. It is said that the collective length of the sisters’ hair measured 37 feet!
Having garnered a modicum of fame, their father, Fletcher Sutherland, developed “The Seven Sutherland Sisters Hair Grower,” a mixture of alcohol, vegetable oils, and water. Having an intuitive sense for marketing, Mr. Sutherland sent the Hair Grower to a chemist for endorsement, receiving the following testimonial:
Cincinnati, Ohio, March, 1884: - Having made a Chemical Analysis of the Hair Grower prepared by the Seven Long Haired Sisters, I hereby certify that I found it free from all injurious substances. It is beyond question the best preparation for the hair ever made and I cheerfully endorse it. -- J.R. Duff, M.D., Chemist.

In its first year, the Hair Grower made the family $90,000 (as it was likely most popular with balding men!). They followed it shortly thereafter with a Scalp Cleaner and Hair Colorator. These hair products eventually made the family wealthy but their lavish spending and the vogue for the bob after World War I would leave the family penniless.


The curiosity of the Sutherland Sisters’ hair has inspired other artists besides Mika Rothenberg. Alyson Pou developed a performance/installation called A Slight Headache, a work presented in the manner of a 19th century dime museum/sideshow at the South Street Seaport Museum.


Replicating a carnival sideshow, an introductory gallery displayed freaks-of-nature / wonders-of-the-world in glass bell jars. Specimens such as the bearded piranha and the mummified alligator were presented in good humor to prepare you for the forthcoming performance, which itself revolved around a mother and daughter connected supernaturally by their exceptionally long hair.


A Slight Headache and Cheese both use the device of freakishly long hair to elicit connotations of the erotic and the strange as they relate to a bygone era. However, the fascination with women who have exceptionally long hair did not end with the PT Barnum act of the Sutherland Sisters. Today the internet brandishes a trove of sites featuring women with floor-length tresses. Woman’s long hair has been (and still is) seen as a source of beauty and temptation.

http://www.amazing-hair.de/
http://www.longhairyo.com/
http://www.longhairfoto.de/frame.htm
http://www.tlhp.de/links.htm